Blog: Cashmere
Blog: Cashmere
Cashmere is classed as a luxury fibre. The commercial definition of the fibre is a mean diameter of less than 16.5 microns and 40mm in length. It is made from the hair of goats. Cashmere goats have an outer layer of coarse hair which is not used in cashmere products. This outer hair must be separated from the softer under layer of hair which is used in the products. The soft layer is grown by the goats in response to cold temperatures. As the weather warms the hair begins to shed. This can be collected by farmers. Some comb the hair out of their animals whereas others pluck or shear the animals. The yield of cashmere hair is low about 0.5 to 0.75 kg per animal [1].
According to Viva (Vegetarian's International Voice for Animals), there is much controversy around cashmere products. For example there are claims that:
- Land can be depleted in quality by over grazing.
- The collection of cashmere from the animal is often described as cruel when sheared or plucked from the animal.
- The quantity of cashmere obtained from cashmere goats is low and therefore not environmentally economical.
Johnstons of Elgin, UK, make cashmere products. They are one of the founding companies of the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA).
The SFA states the following on its website:
"The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) is a non-profit standard holding and capacity building organisation. We represent a global alliance of supply chain actors, stakeholders and industry experts with a mission to ensure the long-term viability of the cashmere sector." [2]
And...
"Through our work, the SFA aims to minimise the environmental impact of cashmere, safeguard livelihoods and ensure high animal welfare standards. We work with the end-to-end supply chain, connecting livestock herders to brands and retailers in the global fashion industry." [2]
The SFA has laudable aims and is trying to impose good ethical practices upon cashmere production. However it is self regulating and cannot impose legal requirements upon its members. The high price of the product, perhaps, helps to maintain the standards since a glut of cashmere in the market place would cause prices to fall due to competition. As competition increases then corners may be cut in the production line to ensure profits are still maintained. Corner cutting could involve lower prices paid to producers, poor animal welfare conditions, increase in herd sizes which causes overgrazing.
It is a luxury product. Such a small yield is obtained from the individual goat is it a viable product? Is it morally right to choose to buy cashmere products? I question myself, because, I like cashmere products and have bought them. Garments made from cashmere are extremely warm, soft and light weight. I think of my cashmere garments as investment pieces. Which I will not throw away once the latest fashion trend moves on. Invariably cashmere will wear at friction and stretch points. An industry has grown around the reconditioning, repair and recycling of cashmere products. A company doing this is, Nearly New Cashmere Co. based in Masham, Ripon, Yorkshire. Here old cashmere can be recycled into new products or repaired. [3]
Similarly, Pure Collection, based in West Sussex, offers a similar repair service and claims it can trace its cashmere from "goat to garment". [4] It goes on to say that 'much' of its cashmere is certified by the Global Organic Textiles Standard (GOTS).
I still feel guilty that my cashmere is being transported form Mongolia. In the late 19th Century the Scottish borders imported cashmere from Asia. Scotland was the epicentre of cashmere production. There were approximately 250 woollen mills in the region producing cashmere yarn and products. [5] However, this went into decline as the market price for cashmere was controlled by the Chinese cashmere market, there were political difficulties, the UK goat meat market was small at that time. Cashmere farmers reverted to sheep farming.
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| Image: Paul Reid. Lunan farm |
Maybe the success of Lunan Farm will encourage more UK farmers to produce cashmere. However there is a need for more mills to process the fibre. The micro-mill, Border Mill, is small enough to handle single fleeces if desired. However it has a one year waiting list.
[1] https://viva.org.uk/animals/other-issues/wool/
[2] https://sustainablefibre.org/
[3]https://www.nearlynewcashmere.co.uk/pages/about
[4]https://www.purecollection.com/our-story
[5] https://www.lunanbayfarm.com/scottish-cashmere/
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